At the workshop\u00a0Panzerkampfwagen II Ausf. A 1:35 (Tamiya 35292), without valorization – „right out of the box”.<\/em><\/p>\n First of all the primer.<\/em><\/p>\n Kolejny etap to naniesienie koloru bazowego za pomoc\u0105 aerografu oraz zastosowanie modulacji kolor\u00f3w, z wykorzystaniem 4 ja\u015bniejszych odcieni koloru bazowego. Niekt\u00f3re szczeg\u00f3\u0142y zosta\u0142y dodatkowo uwypuklone, poprzez rozja\u015bnienie p\u0119dzlem.<\/p>\n In the next step, the base colour was airbrushed. After that a modulation, with 4 levels of highlights, was added. Some small detailes where highligted, by painting with a lighter tone of the base colour, using a brush .<\/em><\/p>\n Kolejny etap to nak\u0142adanie kalek do\u0142\u0105czonych do zestawu. Przed ich na\u0142o\u017ceniem ca\u0142y model zosta\u0142 pokryty b\u0142yszcz\u0105cym lakierem bezbarwnym (mo\u017cna zastosowa\u0107 r\u00f3wnie\u017c lakier satynowy), kt\u00f3ry u\u0142atwi nak\u0142adanie kalek. W przypadku nak\u0142adania kalek na powierzchni\u0119 modelu o matowym wyko\u0144czeniu, bardzo trudno otrzyma\u0107 jednolity, zadowalaj\u0105cy i realistyczny efekt – odradzam. Dodatkowo b\u0142yszcz\u0105cy lakier bezbarwny (lub satynowy) u\u0142atwi nam dalsz\u0105 prac\u0119 z farbami olejnymi, filtrami i pigmentami.<\/p>\n Wyci\u0119te z arkusza kalki \u00a0odpowiadaj\u0105ce naszym oznaczeniom, umieszczamy w ciep\u0142ej wodzie. Po kilku minutach kalki oddzielaj\u0105 si\u0119 od arkusza i s\u0105 gotowe do na\u0142o\u017cenia na model. Na miejsce, w kt\u00f3rym ma by\u0107 umieszczona \u00a0kalka, za pomoc\u0105 p\u0119dzelka, nanosimy niewielk\u0105 ilo\u015b\u0107 p\u0142ynu do kalkomanii (s\u0142u\u017cy do wzmocnienia dzia\u0142ania kleju oraz do zmi\u0119kczenia kalkomanii tak, aby lepiej uk\u0142ada\u0142a si\u0119 na powierzchni modelu). Po umieszczeniu kalek w odpowiednim miejscu (delikatnie zsuwamy zwil\u017con\u0105 kalk\u0119, z wyci\u0119tego arkusza, p\u0119dzelkiem, na model) ponownie nanosimy niewielk\u0105 ilo\u015b\u0107 p\u0142ynu do kalkomanii na oznaczenia. Pomo\u017ce nam to pozby\u0107 si\u0119 ewentualnych p\u0119cherzyk\u00f3w powietrza, pod powierzchni\u0105 kalki i ostatecznie j\u0105 wyr\u00f3wna\u0107. Tak naniesione kalki nale\u017cy pozostawi\u0107, na modelu, na oko\u0142o 12 godzin. Po tym czasie mo\u017cna poprawi\u0107 ewentualne niedoci\u0105gni\u0119cia.<\/p>\n The next step is to apply the decals supplied with the kit. Before applying them, the entire model is airbrushed with a gloss varnish (satin varnish can also be used) to facilitate the application of the decals. In case of applying the decals onto the surface with a matt finish, it is very difficult to obtain a uniform, satisfactory and realistic effect – I don’t advise it. In addition, the gloss (or satin) varnish will make it easier for us to work with oil paints, filters and pigments later on.<\/em><\/p>\n Cut the sheet of decal paper corresponding to chosen markings and put it in warm water. After a few minutes, the film will separate from the sheet and will be ready to be applied to the model. At the spot where the decal is to be placed on the model, using a brush, apply a small amount of setting solution for decals (it is used to enhance the adhesive and soften the decal so that it settles better on the surface of the model). Once the decal have been placed correctly on the model (gently slide wet decal, from the sheet of decal paper, onto the model, using a brush) , apply a small amount of setting solution to the decal, to seal it. This will help to get rid of possible air bubbles below the surface of the decal and eventually level it up. Leave the decals with the setting solution on the model for up to about 12 hours. After this time you can correct any shortcomings or air bubbles.<\/em><\/p>\n Je\u015bli po zastosowaniu p\u0142ynu do kalkomanii, efekt w dalszym ci\u0105gu jest niezadowalaj\u0105cy, ostrym ostrzem delikatnie przebijamy kalk\u0119 w miejscu powstania p\u0119cherzyk\u00f3w powietrza lub nacinamy miejsca, w kt\u00f3rych kalka jest widocznie napr\u0119\u017cona – najcz\u0119\u015bciej w punkcie nak\u0142adania si\u0119 r\u00f3\u017cnych powierzchni (np. w\u0142azy lub wizjery na wie\u017cy). Po tych zabiegach powt\u00f3rnie nak\u0142adamy p\u0142yn do kalkomanii. Czynno\u015bci te mo\u017cna powtarza\u0107 wielokrotnie do uzyskania zadowalaj\u0105cego efektu. NALE\u017bY PAMI\u0118TA\u0106, \u017ce ka\u017cdorazowe u\u017cycie p\u0142ynu do kalkomanii os\u0142abia jej struktur\u0119 i w rezultacie mo\u017ce doprowadzi\u0107 do jej zniszczenia.<\/p>\n If, after the application of the setting solution, the effect is still unsatisfactory, use a sharp blade to gently pierce any air bubbles or cut the areas where the decal film is visibly stressed – mostly at the point of overlap of various surfaces (for example hatches or viewfinders on the turret ). After these treatments we apply the setting solution once again on to the decals. These actions can be repeated many times to achieve a satisfactory effect. PLEASE REMEMBER that every time You use a setting solution for decals, it weakens the structure of the decal and can eventually destroy it.<\/em><\/p>\n Teraz model jest gotowy na kolejny etap – nak\u0142adanie filtr\u00f3w i „wash”.<\/p>\n Now the model is ready for the next step – adding filters and washes.<\/em><\/p>\n U\u017cywaj\u0105c szarego filtra, na bazie szarej farby emaliowej (1 farby:10 rozpuszczalnika) i p\u0119dzla ca\u0142y model zostaje pokryty cienk\u0105, prawie przezroczyst\u0105 warstw\u0105 farby. Filtr pomaga \u0142agodnie po\u0142\u0105czy\u0107 kolor bazowy, rozja\u015bnienia i na\u0142o\u017cone kalki oraz nieco zmieni\u0107 ich ton. W kolejnym kroku na model na\u0142o\u017cony zostaje tzw. „wash” na bazie farby emaliowej w kolorze zielonym (2~3 farby:7~8 rozpuszczalnika). „Wash” dodaje cienie i odmian\u0119 w tonacji kolorystycznej, a w rezultacie podkre\u015bla szczeg\u00f3\u0142y modelu. Po kilku minutach, gdy „wash” wyschnie w dotyku, jego nadmiar zostaje usuni\u0119ty za pomoc\u0105 ma\u0142ego p\u0119dzelka i bezbarwnego rozpuszczalnika (p\u0119dzel powinien by\u0107 zwil\u017cony, a nie umoczony w rozpuszczalniku – nadmiar nale\u017cy usun\u0105\u0107 za pomoc\u0105 chusteczki lub papierowego r\u0119cznika).<\/p>\n Using an enamel grey filter (1 paint:10 white spirit) and a brush, the entire model is covered with a thin, almost transparent layer of paint . It helps to blend the base colour, highlights and decals and slightly change its tone. Afterwards a green enamel wash (2~3 paint:7~8 white spirit) is applied on to the model to add shadows and tonal variations and in result highlight the details on the model, even more. After a few minutes when the wash has dried to the touch, its excess is removed using a small brush and some white spirit (the brush should be wetted with white spirit and not soaked with it – use a napkin or a paper towel to remove the excess).<\/em><\/p>\n Teraz model jest gotowy na kolejny etap: uszkodzenia, zacieki i p\u0142owienie.<\/p>\n Now the model \u00a0is ready for the next step: chipping, streaks and fading.<\/em><\/p>\n Po tym etapie model jest gotowy na zabrudzenia i pigmenty.<\/p>\n With that out of our way the model is ready for weathering and pigments.<\/em><\/p>\n Pozdrawiam,<\/p>\n Jakx<\/p>\n Regards,<\/em><\/p>\n Jakx<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" Witam, Na warsztacie\u00a0Panzerkampfwagen II Ausf. A 1:35 (Tamiya 35292), bez waloryzacji – „prosto z pud\u0142a”. Na pocz\u0105tek podk\u0142ad. \/ Hello, At the workshop\u00a0Panzerkampfwagen II Ausf. A 1:35 (Tamiya 35292), without valorization – „right out of the box”. First of all the primer. Kolejny etap toContinue reading<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":512,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[4],"tags":[5,49,77],"class_list":["post-461","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-warsztat-workshop","tag-5","tag-panzerkampfwagen-ii-ausf-a","tag-tamiya-35292"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/inscale.studio\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/461","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/inscale.studio\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/inscale.studio\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/inscale.studio\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/inscale.studio\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=461"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/inscale.studio\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/461\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/inscale.studio\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/512"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/inscale.studio\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=461"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/inscale.studio\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=461"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/inscale.studio\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=461"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}
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